PCT summer 2013

This summer I hiked 170 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail in Southern Oregon with my brother Mike.  I am growing to really love hiking on this trail, with its mild weather, relatively easy grades (compared to the AT, anyway!), and beautiful scenery.  This summer I started hiking at Green Springs Summit, near the town of Ashland, Oregon.  Mike me up with my at highway 140 near Fish Lake, and we continued north together through the Sky Lakes Wilderness, Crater Lake National Park, past Mt. Thielson, and through the Diamond Peak Wilderness to arrive at Willamette Pass.  I have documented details of the hike in my Trail journal.  I have also created a Google Earth tour of the trip - which one can use with free Google Earth software to explore my trail journal from a geographic vantage. And here are the photos from the trip.  In addition, here are a few of my other hiking links: John Muir Trail (PCT 2009) | Northern CA PCT (2010) | Appalachian Trail (2004-2007) | My other trip journals | Mike’s journal for this trip.

I have now hiked 694 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail, which is just under 25% of the total mileage.  I don't know if I will end up hiking the entire trail, but I would like to at least do some additional substantial sections.  Just for fun, here's a list of the sections I have not hiked, listed in order of priority:

1. Heading north from Tuolomne Meadows, at least as far as Donner Pass.  This would cover the northern portion of the high Sierras

2. The northern ~750 miles, starting from where we left off this year in Willamette Pass.  I expect that if/when I do this section it will be broken down into three separate hikes, each of which would be around 250 miles and 2 weeks.  From Willamette to the Columbia River would be one logical segment.

3. At least one hike in the southern "desert" region of the trail, which covers 700 miles from the Mexico border to Kennedy Meadows, the beginning of the high Sierra.

4. At least one hike in the higher mountains of southern California, which span several distinct ranges near Los Angeles and are included in the 700 miles referred to in number 3.  The lower elevation portions I could hike during a spring break, while the higher elevation segments reach above 8000 feet and could see snow that early in the year.

Tuscarora Trail

I hiked a bit of the Tuscacora Trail recently with a friend.  I will call him "N" to protect the innocent . . or his reputation [ :) ].  The Tuscarora is an approximately 250 mile trail that connects to the Appalachian Trail on each end.  The southern terminus is near Overall Run falls in the northern district of Shenandoah National Park.  The northern terminus is near the Susquehanna River, just north of where the Appalachian Trail makes a major valley crossing of 15 miles or so.  Between those points it runs roughly parallel to the AT, along ridges several dozen miles to the west.  The trail was designed in the 1960s, during a time before the National Trails Act provided Federal oversight for protection of the AT corridor.  At the time, there was concern that urban development would encroach upon the AT to the extent that an intact corridor would not be preserved - and the Tuscarora was envisioned as an alternate route.

We planned a roughly 50 mile section, starting from the northern terminus.  N admitted to being in "less than ideal" shape, but we planned only moderately ambitious distances (mostly between 10 and 13 miles) along an elevation provide with minimal ups and downs with the exception of a 5-mile "roller coaster" section on day 3.  It appeared manageable.  From scouting ahead of time, I knew that water was scarce on the first ~20 miles of trail, so we cached some water near our intended campsite for the first night, left a car at the end point, and drove to the starting point of the hike.  We started at Millers Gap on the Darlington Trail, 1.5 miles further northeast along the ridge from the northern terminus of the TT.  The trailhead was a little obscure, but a friendly DNR officer happened by as we were putting the final touches on our packs and pointed us in the right direction.  The Darlington Trail was well maintained, and in little time we found the intersection with the AT.  As if to justify it's reputation as a "busy trail", I encountered three through-hikers just as I reached the intersection.  We took a lunch break at the nearby shelter, then continued on our way.  Turns out that the Tuscarora Trail is not nearly as well maintained as the Darlington (or the AT) in this area.  Japanese Stiltgrass and other plants covered the trail much of the time, often to depths of a couple of feet.  As we approached the first road crossing at route 34, the trail degenerated into a rutted stream channel, badly in need to re-contouring.  We walked for 1/2 a mile along route 34 and then followed logging roads for several easy miles.  Although this section was easy, we missed turns a couple of times - I topped out a steep climb of a power line cut without noticing a right turn 20 yards before the top, and N missed a left from one old woods road onto another.  The route became more rocky as the afternoon wore on.  At 7:00pm we crossed an old woods road that indicated we were 3 miles from where we had stashed our water.  With about 2 hours of daylight remaining, we figured we could get in before dark - but we were wrong.  The route alternated between long grass through poorly-marked ridgetop and extremely rocky sections.  Not as challenging as the climbs and descents of the White Mountains and western Maine, but probably the rockiest "flat" section of trail I have ever seen.  Around dark we reached the boundary of the Reinmman Audubon Sanctuary.  We continued for several hours through the darkness, proceeding by spotting one blaze with our headlamps before clamoring over rocks to the blaze, then finding the next one.  At midnight we finally reached the clearing at Waggoners Gap where we had stashed our water.  We had planned to hike another 0.8 miles to reach an official campsite, but given the conditions (it had also started raining, by the way), we set up in a picnic area and called it a day.

Given the late night, we slept until mid-morning.  It was still raining as we packed up, knowing that the next several miles were also reportedly rocky and rugged.  And indeed they were - it was mid-afternoon when we reached a landmark that indicated we had traveled a measly 4 miles.  After a couple of easy miles, we traversed another rocky ridge, and it was nightfall by the time we reached the Tuscarora State Forest boundary.  Though the plan had been to hike to the Wagon Wheel Shelter, we opted for a trailside campsite in Wildcat Hollow, where a stream lulled us to sleep.  Over dinner, we decided on a modified plan of action.  N was having trouble with the rocks, and seemed unlikely to be up for the 17.5 miles we would need to do the next day in order to make it to the car.  So we decided he would hike to nearby Colonel Denning State Park and spend the night there.  I would continued along our planned route, get the car the next day, and pick him up.

Day three dawned sunny and warm.  I climbed out of Wildcat Hollow to Flat Rock, where a broad view of the Cumberland Valley is accessible to anyone willing to hike 2.5 miles of relatively-steep trail from the state park.  I saw ~10 people in the section of trail near the view; other than them, we had seen only one hiker in the previous days and I saw no others after that.  There was a steep descent to the road near the state park, followed by a rather steep climb back to the ridge.  The next 8 miles were fairly easy, along an old road with scattered rocks and downed trees on top of the ridge, with little variation in elevation.  Next came the "roller coaster".  This segment featured 3 very steep climbs followed by some even steeper descents.  The route did not bother with switchbacks, and was so steep I feared I would tumble down the mountain in a few places.  The last descent also featured large (3-4 foot diameter) rocks in the middle of the steep trail.  At last I reached Fowlers Hollow, where a shelter awaited.  When I arrived at the shelter, I was puzzled at movement of a dark gray colored object in the corner - and discovered that a porcupine was inside the shelter, chewing on the wood.  I decided to set up camp at a nearby stream instead of using the shelter.  At least I arrived before dark.

On the final day, I started with one more crazy-steep climb, reaching the edge of the Hemlocks Natural Area on the top.  This area is part of the Tuscarora State Forest, and features some short trails; it's accessible via
a dirt forest road.  From there I followed the ridge top for 10 miles, alternating between rocky ridges and old roads.  There was an excellent view (seen at right) at one of the high spots along the ridge.  The southern end of the ridge featured another crazy-steep descent, after which I reached the road where we had parked a car 3 days earlier, and where I had ended my 40 miles in one day last Sept.

Here are the rest of the photos.

Pocosin Cabin

After many years of talking about doing it, we finally rented one of the rustic cabins in Shenandoah National Park this week.  The Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, which we are members of, owns several dozen cabins spread throughout the Blue Ridge and into Pennsylvania.  Most are rustic in nature, with no electricity or modern plumbing; most also require walking a short distance from the nearest road.   For this trip, we settled on the Pocosin Cabin, a structure built in the 1930's and located near Swift Run Gap in Shenandoah.

Shenandoah has long been one of our favorite outdoor places - partly because it's perhaps the only natural area that we both learned to love before we met.  We have been there during nearly every season, from the bone-chilling cold of late March to the blazing colors of Autumn.  We have done family camping, explored history and park geology, and lots of hiking - the ~100 miles of AT through the park, as well as numerous other backpacking trips.  

The drive to the park was rainy and overcast, and for a few miles we could barely see a car-length ahead of us on Skyline Drive.  We stopped at the visitor center in Big Meadows in hopes of some clearing in the weather, and indeed as we arrived at the trailhead the rain slowed to a stop.  The hike to the cabin was only ~1/4 mile, and we needed two trips to bring in everything for two kids including a 1-year old.  The cabin is small inside, though there is space for 8 people to sleep - it would be tight.  We spent most of our time on the cozy front porch, which features a picnic table that is protected from the rain,  There was a view east to the valley near Stanardsville.  Our big adventure for the trip was a ~4.5 mile hike to South River Falls.  We could have visited this waterfall via a ~10 mile hike from the cabin, but that was a bit much to attempt.  So we drove a few miles down Skyline Drive to South Rive Picnic Area, where we have started/ended a couple of backpacking trips, and embarked on a a lovely hike past a tumbling mountain stream to the falls, 3rd-highest in the park.  I think we probably dropped (and gained) at least 1000 feet, and between the distance and the elevation it was definitely a record hike for Calista.  Linnea had a great time in the backpack and even fell asleep on the way down.  

Linnea had fun practicing her walking (she's getting close), including a stroll on the AT.  Calista loved the little spring near the cabin, and enjoyed meeting a thru-hiker at the spring one evening.  

On the way to the park the temperature dropped roughly 20 degrees.  We wore jackets and warm hats in the evening - always a lovely feeling during the summer!  All in all, a great little summer trip.  Here are the rest of the photos.

House remodeling

We have been pretty busy since winter with various house projects.  The major effort involved hiring a contractor to put in shelves next to our fireplace and re-finish the fireplace itself with stone.  The project also involved refinishing the floors, new light fixtures, and a few other items.  During this time we also removed the wallpaper from the dining room and then completely repainted the main area upstairs - the living and dining rooms.  So it looks very different now!  The room is not complete in terms of decor - we are borrowing a rug, buying a new chair, and trying out various pieces of artwork for the mantel and shelves - thus the current cluttered look.

We are also working on some other projects.  We are getting a new shed in the back yard.  I hired a local guy - the same one who helped build our shed at 50C Ridge - to demo the old, rusty metal shed and build a platform foundation for the new one.  The new shed will come from a company that will bring it in in pieces and assemble on-site.  We are also having new insulation and duct-sealing work done in the attic - not flashy, but hopefully it will reduce our heating bills next winter!

Below is a photo of the finished shed foundation.  Here are a few more photos, showing the old shed partially-removed and the house from the outside with the azaleas in bloom - from a few weeks ago.  I need to upload a "before" photo of the fireplace so that the contrast is more evident!

Milestone Hike

I had a milestone birthday this year, so I decided I would conquer a bunch of hills instead of just going "over" one, and put in 40 miles of hiking in one day at the same time.  Seemed like the appropriate number of miles!  I have done several long hikes before, but they were mostly supported, organized events: the 62-mile "One Day Hike" from Georgetown to Harpers Ferry on the C&O Canal (twice); the ~40 mile "Hike Across Maryland" on the Appalachian Trail, and the 35.5 mile "End to End" hike on the Brandywine Trail in Delaware and Pennsylvania.  But this hike would not be part of an organized event, and was supported only in the sense that my very accommodating wife offered to drop me off, meet me halfway, and pick me up at the end.

I chose to do a section of the Tuscarora Trail, which is a route that runs parallel to the Appalachian Trail through the mid-Atlantic region.  It was designed as an alternate route, back in the days (pre-1968) before the National Trails Act gave official protected status to the route of the AT.  Now the Tuscarora provides a scenic, low-crowds ridgetop route from Shenandoah to north of Harrisburg, PA.  The section I hiked for my birthday starts just north of the PA/MD state line, and ends near the town of Spring Run.  I started my day with a 3:30 wake-up call in Greenbelt. The original plan had been to drive out to Hancock and stay in a hotel, but when our bus returning from a cross country meet in Delaware was delayed, we decided to scrap that plan.  We arrived at the trailhead in time for a 6:00am start - before the sun rose at 6:45.  I climbed over 1000' feet of sometimes-steep trail in the dark, and was greeted by first light as I crested the ridge.  From there the route was mostly flat for the next 20 miles, according to the map.  However, as it turned out, "flat" did not mean "easy".  The first 12 miles of ridgetop hiking had seen little maintenance since spring, and was overgrown with several species of invasive plants, and at least two species bearing nasty prickers.  There were also several long stretches of rocky, ridgetop route that made for slow going (see the photo above right).  In many places the route was hard to follow, and although I knew I would not get lost because the trail stayed on a narrow ridge, it was still slow going for an agenda that involved hiking 3-4 miles per hour.  But I did not panic, and enjoyed the clear blue sky and dry air - the first such day in many weeks - probably since my last Tuscarora Hike in May, actually. 

Around mile 10 I encountered the first of three porcupines that cross my path that day.  It was following the trail, and made a clicking noise with it's teeth because it was nervous about how close I was.  Fortunately it found a sidetrail that headed to a shelter and I was able to pass by.  I also saw a large turkey, a deer, a rattlesnake, and I am fairly sure I saw a bobcat.  It bounded away quickly, and I could appreciate why people mistakenly claim to see cougars in the eastern woods on occasion. 

After crossing PA route 16 at the 14 mile mark, the route got much easier.  Vegetation had been cleared to the edge of the trail, and the route was well-marked.  I began to make better time.  Near the crossing of US 30 was a terrific view to the west, near a side used for launching hang-gliders.  A bit further north, dark clouds appeared and it rained for a few minutes - but the rain was light and did not last long.  Soon I came upon another terrific view, this one to the east and north (and pictured here).  After descending steeply to Cowans Gap, I found Tatiana and the girls at the state park, hanging out on a blanket in the grass.  Milepost 23.5, and it was already mid-afternoon.  I hung around for a little less than an hour, then got on the trail again.  Fortunately for me, much of the rest of the route - with the exception of three miles of narrow, rocky ridge, was along old woods roads which made for quick hiking.  A few miles later I passed an intersection where the Great Eastern Trail splits off.  This trail is a work-in-progress that is intended to be a continuous hiking trail from Tennessee to New York, by way of eastern Kentucky, West Virginia, and Pennsylvania.  There are several alternate routes though the mid-Atlantic, and one follows the Tuscarora for a bit.  Later I climbed to the rocky ridge where the trail crosses a mountain through which the Pennsylvania Turnpike passes in a tunnel.  I could hear the roar of truck traffic for several miles.  As I descended from this ridge, darkness was falling.  I hiked the last couple of miles along lightly-traveled paved roads in the gathering darkness.

Just for fun, here are some of my endurance "personal records", which I reflected on during this hike:

62 - most miles hiked in a day (C&O Canal, "One Day Hike")
28 - most miles hiked with a full backpack - on a day in Maine
27 - most miles run at one time (Boston and Marine Corps marathons - for the Marine Corp I jogged from the Pentagon metro to the start line because I was late - that was at least an extra 0.8)
75 - most miles biked in one stretch (I need to do a century sometime) 
18 - most miles cross-country skiing (not sure about this one - there was an all-day loop that we used to do at Susqhehannock Lodge that I think was 18).

I have now hiked almost 150 miles on the Tuscarora Trail, which represents 58% of the entire route.

What do I want to try next?  There are supported "endurance hike" events held on several other trails that I would consider.  I would really like to do a one-day traverse of the Presidential Range in New Hampshire.  

Here are the rest of my photos from the day.

Organization time!

It's been a while since I had a chance to post anything here.  There's been a lot going on - moving to our new house, getting ready to sell the old house, getting ready for the new baby!

But we have made some progress towards improvements in the new house.  We have done a lot of work in the yard.  Our back yard, in particular, in a case study in invasive plants - we have English ivy, Poison ivy, Multiflora rose, and a particularly pervasive species called Japanese Knotweed.  So far I am mostly using mechanical control, waging war against the invaders.  We want to eventually plant some of our favorite perennials and bushes, but most of that will need to wait until at least the fall.  I started taking photos tonight after the major rainstorms hit, so I don't have any photos of the yard to show off.

Instead, I have some photos of rooms that are in relatively good shape.  One of the rooms we are most excited about in this house is the mud room/laundry room.  It was already painted this bright red color, but we have added vertical bike storage (that was quite an operation, trying to figure out which sections of the wall would support the weight of the bikes!).  We are also happy to be using all of this extra storage space for tools and other stuff.

Here you can see my bike and the charging station for my electric lawnmower - another new acquisition, since at the old house I could mow in 5 minutes using a mechanical/non-motorized mower.

 We are also excited about being able to store all of our outdoor gear in a more accessible and temperature-controlled environment.  Everything was in the attic before.  I have converted a closet in the guest bedroom to a gear storage space (the rest of the bedroom is not finished yet, so no photos!)

 We have a large "common room" in the downstairs area.  Mostly it's a play space right now, but it has the potential to be multi-purpose.  Here is a corner with some organized space.

 I also have my desk and files pretty much in order.  Here's a couple of parting shots of that area.  Not exactly pretty - Tatiana has been talking about replacing the desk for years - but it's functional.  Tatiana has an office in one of the bedrooms, and it's functional but needs some work be to "done". 

We also painted all four of the bedrooms.  We have big plans for the main room upstairs, but we are not quite ready to execute yet.  Hopefully it will soon see some built-in bookshelves and other improvements!

Lament for a lost winter

It's been a rough winter for snow-lovers like me. There have been few opportunities to ski or play in the snow. In DC we had snow a couple of times, but never as much as even an inch, and it all melted almost immediately. When we visited Michigan at Christmas this year, we could not even find sufficient snow for skiing in Cadillac, normally a great place to ski. We cancelled our annual trip to Lake Placid because of weak snow conditions (they had some, but it was icy and the temperatures were forecast to be above freezing all weekend). We did get out to Canaan Valley for one of the few weekends with good conditions, so I was greateful for that.

In this spirit of wishing for a better snow season in 2013, I decided to compile a list of my favorite places for cross country skiing. Later I plan to do a post on places where I would like to ski, in the spririt of my "top 10 places where I would like to backpack" list.

So here's the list, in countdown format:

Runner-up status go to McKenzie ski trails in Michigan and Blackwater Falls State Park in West Virginia

10. Cadillac Pathway is a trail system just outside the city of Cadillac, less than 2 hours from where my parents live in Michigan. I have only skiied there a few times, but on our most recent visit we experienced excellent conditions, with fresh powder and great gliding through forested, moderately challenging trails.


9. New Germany State Park is in western Maryland, in the mountains of Garrett County. This region rises significantly from the east to nearly 3000 feet, and gets substantial winter snows. The state park has an nice compact system of trails, with some fun downhills and a very scenic stretch through hemlock forest, paralleling a creek. There is a small warming hut with rentals and light food during busy times as well. It's one of my favorite places for a quick trip when conditions are good.

8. Fahnestock State Park is in the Hudson Valley region of New York, only about an hour north of New York City. We have skiied here a couple of times on the way up to the Lake Placid area. They have a nice network of trails through woods, as well as some that go over a frozen lake. The area is highly scenic, and features a mountainous ridge along which the Appalachian Trail travels.
7. Susquehannock State Forest is in north-central Pennsylvania, in one of the least-populated regions of the eastern US. It is heavily-forested and mountainous. I have skied here multiple times with the Wilmington Trail Club. Our excursions usually featured skiing along the Susqhehannock Trail, a long-distance hiking trail that makes a ~80 mile loop through the forest. None of this area is groomed, so the skiing can be challenging if the snow is deep or icy. But in good conditions it's a great place to ski, with scenic and lightly-travelled trails. The image above right is from the Susquehannock Trail in 2007. Also nearby is the Pine Creek Gorge, which features a rail-trail through the bottom of a scenic canyon.

6. Lapland Lake cross country ski area is northwest of Albany, in the southern section of the Adirondacks. The is a groomed ski resort with many miles of fun trails, and an opportunity to ski fast. There are some steep hills that are quite ski-able because of the groomed conditions. Trails wind through hardwood and hemlock forest and along the edge of a large lake. Also nearby is backcountry skiing on the Northville-Lake Placid trail. We have skiied here numerous times with the Wilmington Trail Club.


5. Winona State Forest in upstate New York. This area is a lot like Big M, with a trail system through forested land on varied terrain, in an area with low population density. The trails are groomed by local volunteers. Winona lies in the Tug Hill Plateau snow belt, in the area north of Syracuse, between Lake Ontario and the Adirondacks. Thus it gets buried in snow every winter and conditions are usually quite good. I skiied there several times with groups from the Wilmington Trail Club in Delaware, though not recently. On one memorable ocassion, the snow was coming down so hard that our cars were stuck in the parking lot after we came back from skiing! This trail system does not benefit from any warming huts or day lodges, so trail lunches are brief to prevent freezing fingers!

4. Big M in Michigan. This area is part of the Manistee National Forest, north of my parents house, between Ludington and Cadillac. It's in the middle of nowhere and thus is rarely crowded - I don't think we have seen more than 10 cars in the parking lot. They have a warming hut with a wood stove, which is nice for breaks between loops. The trail system is scenic and has some moderately-challenging sections with some nice hills. Most trails run through secondary-growth woods with moderate-to large sized trees. Volunteers groom the trails when snow depth is sufficient. One of my best memories from Big M was a couple of years ago when several of us were skiing there as snow drifted down out of the ski and we glided through silent woods.

3. High Peaks/Adirondack Loj. The High Peaks region of the Adirondacks has been a magnet for both summer and winter backcountry travel for many years. When I was a student at RPI I spent making weekends hiking in these mountains. In recent years we have visited in the winter, and I have enjoyed exploring the mountains during winter conditions. The Adirondack Loj (so-named 100 years ago as a result of a "spelling reform" movement) is the base of operations for trips into the wilderness. The snow is deep and the scenery outstanding in most winters. We have skiied and snow-shoed in this area. The High Peaks would rank #1 on this list for scenic value. The photos at right is from one of the trails near the Loj in 2011.

2. Whitegrass is a ski resort in the Canaan Valley of West Virginia. This area features the unusual combination of groomed trails, backcountry loops, and serious hills in one compact area. There are miles of groomed trails ascending over 1000 feet from the valley floor to the top of Bald Knob and the nearby high plateau wilderness area known as Dolly Sods. It's great fun to ski through hemlocks and red spruce in the backcountry regions at the top of the hill, and to cruise down the return trails to the bottom, especially the gradual downhill trail called Powderline. We visit this area 1-2 times per winter, since it's relatively close by. Whitegrass is pictured here.

1. Mount Van Hoevenberg and the Jackrabbit Trail. The Lake Placid region is fantastic for skiing, and these two areas combine to form my top ski destination. Mount Van was the olympic ski venue in 1980, and continues to be managed withe a great network of groomed trails - some are easy routes that amble along creeks or through snowy woods, while others have challenging hills and curves. The groomed trail center is connected to several other skiing areas by way of the ~40 mile long Jackrabbit Trail. When we have stayed in the area in the past, we have been close to this trail, which crosses a combination of groomed and backcountry stretches on the way to Mount Van. It's a fantastic place to ski.


Well, that's it for my top-10 list. Later I will post a wish list of places where I would like to ski - with destinations in Vermont, New Hampshire, and various western National Parks topping the list.